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Tailoring Techniques
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6y
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Rose Teathyme
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I also reinforced the shoulder by adding bias cut hair canvas. Padstitched the lapels, taped the roll line (by hand) so that the lapels lie close to the body without gaping.
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Pattern Magic by Johnny Nguyen #suit #jacket #pattern #tailoring
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Made by Hand- the great Sartorial Debate Thursday, November 7, 2013 The Making of a Coat- Rory Duffy Reposting some tailoring porn that I enjoyed… THE MAKING OF A COAT #4 - Cutting the Canvas and Lining. Master tailor Rory Duffy cuts and explains the internal structure elements of a han...
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buttonhole underneath, extremely fine thread and a distinct machine stitch (a tiny zig-zag which maybe you can make out in the photo). They had been worked and cut by machine before being remade by hand over top
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From Ruben Bakker, a bespoke maker: "Dear readers, While viewing this post please keep this photo open in a seperate window; it will guide you through the various stages of analyzing a fitting. So today (Saturday 19th of March) I cond..."
More fabulous detail from Ruben Bakker on his fitting process and analysis: Analyzing a fitting | Tailored.
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Front facing with lapel attached to upper collar only to lapel notch. This once upper collar has been checked for turn of cloth and proper finished width. This before front facing is attached to jacket front that has been pad stitched. Men's tailoring, facing will be attached to front with pad stitching before front facing is attached to upper collar.
Finally we turn the collar narrow edges to the undercollar and hand stitch these edges to the felt undercollar (photo 40). This is the way to do this, lovely and easiest method to join upper and lower collar ever. Check upper collar for turn of cloth before trimming and joining to neck facing or lining.
Collar Pattern
Turn the under collar under the upper collar and stitch it to the base of the neckline using sideway stitches (photo 39). Note that in men's tailoring the under collar will be stitched to neckline first. This is proper way of attaching upper collar to under collar for clean finnish
The under collar is stitched using a machine zigzag stitch to the upper collar (right side) along it’s wide edge, matching under collar’s edge to the upper collar’s stitching line (photo 38)
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UNDERSIDE OF COLLAR: "We lengthen the jacket’s collar so that we can turn back the ends. this hides the [contrasting] felt from view when the suit is worn. the collar points are secured with fine hand-stitching."
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Kissing Surgeon's Cuff with contrasting stitching on the button holes.
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This photograph in particular represents the amount of precision, time, patience and attention to detail that goes into the construction of a single piece. Now know: "If its expensive, Its expensive for a reason!"
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TAILOR'S TIPS by Vitale Barberis Canonico Episode 1: Pattern
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Want to learn tailoring to the same level as a Savile Row tailor? Take Mastered's coat making course, taught by Savile Row's Andrew Ramroop: https://www.mastered.com/course-listings/4
![UNDERSIDE OF COLLAR: "We lengthen the jacket’s collar so that we can turn back the ends. this hides the [contrasting] felt from view when the suit is worn. the collar points are secured with fine hand-stitching." Sewing Collars](https://i.pinimg.com/236x/79/52/32/795232728f1d277be1c741440e2e7411--hand-stitching-mens-tailoring-techniques.jpg)
