Fabric dating to the Ottoman Empire

Fragmentary silk velvet with repeating tiger-stripe and cintamani design, Ottoman period (ca. second half of century Turkey, Bursa Silk, metal-wrapped thread; cut and voided velvet (çatma), brocaded;

Lampas

There were several options on my computer screen, but this is the one I decided to weave.

Handwoven lampas fabric made into handbound books. Alice Schlein.

Handwoven lampas fabric made into handbound books.

'Technically speaking the weave is a diasper (or lampas).This comprises two separate layers in weft-faced and warp-faced binding respectively, forming a pattern by alternating on the surface; the main technique used in 14th century Italian silk weaving, but also occurring before and after that period.The ground weave of the gold fabric is a five-shaft warp satin with a thread count of 80 per cm. [LM: 200/in!]

The fabric of the reconstruction of the Golden Gown

Silk textile with seraphim and crosses Silk textile with seraphim and crosses, 17th century. Ottoman Empire. Silk, lampas weave (ground in satin, pattern in twill) http://www.metmuseum.org/~/media/Images/Exhibitions/2015/Liturgical%20Textiles/LiturgicalTextiles_DigitalAssets_Poster.jpg?mw=481

Silk textile with seraphim and crosses, century. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Rogers Fund, 1908

Beiderwand, face

Doubleweave, Part Beiderwand and Lampas - Interweave

Lampas circles closeup Primary cloth is 2/1 twill, secondary cloth is 1/2 twill. Ratio of primary to secondary is 3 to 1. Primary is a mixture of pale warm colors in 20/2 cotton; secondary is aubergine 60/2 silk. Warp ends are sleyed 4 per dent in s 10-dent reed, for 50 epi (40 epi primary and 10 epi secondary). The threading for the primary cloth is plotted on a 3-end network and can also be thought of as an advancing twill.

Primary cloth is twill, secondary cloth is twill. Ratio of primary to secondary is 3 to Primary is a mixture of pale warm colors in cotton; secondary is aubergine silk. Warp ends are sleyed


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