I don't know what "fabric" is being used here, but my eyes aren't good enough to create this stunning work - especially without a pattern to follow.
Goldwork Beetle Book(l evans?) MagpieGoldwork
A superb enamel and gem-set Cicada brooch, by Boucheron. The wings of green and blue plique-á-jour enamel with calibré-cut sapphire detail to the old-cut diamond set body and eyes of chrysoberyl cats-eye, mounted in silver and gold, circa 1890.: